Lighting

Solar vs Wired Outdoor Lighting: Which Should You Choose?

A direct comparison of solar and wired outdoor lighting on install effort, brightness, performance, control and total cost over five years.

2026-04-18 5 min read

Solar vs Wired Outdoor Lighting: Which Should You Choose?

If you are planning outdoor lighting for the first time, the first decision is power: solar or wired. Each has clear strengths and clear limits. This article compares the two on the dimensions that actually matter — install effort, ongoing performance, brightness ceiling, lifespan and total cost — so you can make the right call for the specific space you are lighting.

Install effort

Solar wins comfortably. A self-contained solar fixture installs with a screwdriver or by pushing a stake into the ground. No trenching, no cable runs, no electrician, no certification.

Wired lighting needs a low-voltage transformer, cable trenched along the planned route, fixtures connected at each tap point, and either a sparky to install the transformer to mains or a switched mains GPO ready to plug into. For an established garden — particularly one with sandstone paving — the install disturbance is significant.

Brightness ceiling

Wired wins. A mains-powered LED can be 1000+ lumens at full intensity all night. Solar fixtures top out around 400–600 lumens for spotlights and 100–200 lumens for step lights. For ambient, accent and wayfinding light, solar's output is plenty. For security flood lighting or commercial-grade illumination, wired is still the right answer.

Performance over time

Even. Solar fixtures depend on a daily charge — heavy shade or several days of overcast weather will dim them. Wired fixtures depend on a working transformer and intact cable — a strike from a garden tool will end a circuit and require repair work to find and fix.

Modern solar fixtures with lithium-ion batteries are good for 500+ charge cycles (2–3 years) before noticeable battery decline. Wired LEDs typically run 10+ years before bulb replacement, but transformer and cable issues over a decade are common.

Switching, dimming and zones

Wired wins. Wired systems can be controlled by a single switch, integrated into a smart home, or dimmed centrally. Solar fixtures each switch on at dusk and off at dawn or when the battery runs out — no central control. If you need everything off at 11pm, wired is the better choice.

Total cost over five years

For a typical small-to-medium garden lighting plan (8–12 fixtures), rough five-year totals look like:

  • Solar: $400–800 fixtures, $0 install (DIY), $0 running cost, possible $50–150 battery replacements year 3+. Total: ~$500–950.
  • Wired (low-voltage): $400–800 fixtures, $300–800 transformer + cable, $400–1200 sparky + landscaper install, ~$30/year electricity. Total: ~$1,250–2,950.

Solar is materially cheaper, especially when DIY install is realistic.

Where each is the right call

Choose solar when:

  • You are lighting paths, steps, feature walls, trees or entryways
  • The garden gets a few hours of direct or bright indirect sunlight per day
  • You want to install yourself without disturbing existing paving
  • You do not need lighting to stay at full intensity all night

Choose wired when:

  • You need security-grade flood lighting
  • You want centralised control or smart-home integration
  • The location is heavily shaded all day
  • You are commissioning landscape work anyway and trenching is already happening

Hybrid plans

The best outdoor lighting plans for many homes are hybrid — a mains-powered floodlight at the back of the property for occasional security use, and a network of solar fixtures handling the everyday ambient and wayfinding lighting. The two technologies are not mutually exclusive; they solve different problems.

Bottom line

For ambient, accent and wayfinding lighting in a typical Australian garden, solar is now the better choice on every dimension except absolute brightness — cheaper, faster to install, no electrician required, no disturbance to paving, no ongoing electricity cost. Reach for wired only when the brightness ceiling or central control are non-negotiable.

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